DIY Electric Fireplace: How to Build One From Scratch

All Rooms, Bedroom, DIY

Published October 21, 2026

Building a DIY electric fireplace from scratch might sound like a big leap, but if you can frame a box and stack some bricks, you can absolutely do this! This cozy fireplace is the heart of my sister’s bedroom makeover in Utah, and I am so excited to finally show you how it came together.

Finished electric fireplace built from scratch with a red brick surround and hearth, a white mantel decorated with brass candlesticks, framed photos, and a vase of greenery, and Crystel seated beside it near an arched doorway

If you’re just joining us, this is part three of the series. First, I built a wall to divide her big bedroom into a sleeping area and an office. Then I framed in arched doorways on each side of it. Now it’s time for my favorite part: adding a fireplace right in the middle of that brand new wall.

Framed room divider wall with a fireplace frame in the center and arch framing finished in the walkway openings on both sides

I’ve done quite a few fireplaces over the years. I’ve built them from scratch, like in our dining room in Omaha, and I’ve made over a dated brick fireplace, like in our home in St. Louis. I love the feel of a cozy fireplace in a room, and I would put a fireplace in just about everywhere if the space and budget allowed for it. If you want to see all my fireplace projects, go here!

Table of Contents

Watch the DIY Electric Fireplace Come Together

Here’s how this DIY electric fireplace came together, from running wire in the attic to the finished brick surround and white mantel.

Supplies and Tools for a DIY Electric Fireplace

Supplies

Tools

Quick note on the tools: since I was visiting my sister for this project, I used her tools. They got the job done, but I’ll be honest, I’m a little spoiled by my own! So the tools I’ve linked throughout this post are the ones I personally use and love at home, because those are the ones I’d actually recommend to you.

Step 1: Run the Electrical

The first thing I did when I picked this project back up was run electrical. A DIY electric fireplace needs power, and I figured if I was already crawling around in the attic, I might as well make it count!

I added three outlets to this wall. One is inside the recessed area where the fireplace insert sits. The other two are on the back side of the wall, one on each side. That way, if my sister ever wants to put her bed on that wall, she’ll have an outlet on each side of the bed. I like to design with options in mind.

Crystel carrying a coil of yellow electrical wire through the attic trusses to run power for a DIY electric fireplace
Crystel using a cordless drill to install an outlet in an electrical box on the wood framing that will hold the electric fireplace insert

I ran all the wire and wired in the outlets myself. Then an electrician came out to connect my wiring to the electrical panel and install a new breaker. I’m all for DIY, but I also have no problem with calling in a pro!

Step 2: Close It Up With Drywall

Once the electrical was done, we closed everything up with drywall. For the wall, we used standard 1/2 inch drywall, but around the fireplace, we used fire-rated Firecode X drywall.

We left an opening in the front of the fireplace framing for the insert, with the outlet tucked inside, ready to go.

Divider wall covered in fresh drywall with an arched doorway on each side and a framed fireplace bump-out in the center, with an open recess where the electric fireplace insert will go
Close-up of the drywalled fireplace surround with an outlet and yellow wire inside the recessed opening, ready for the electric insert, and plastic sheeting on the floor where the hearth will go

Step 3: Install the Electric Fireplace Insert

This is the moment it starts to feel real! I plugged the insert into the outlet inside the recess before sliding it into place. Then I lifted it up and slid it right into the opening. The insert I used is from PuraFlame. Here’s a link to the exact one that I used.

Electric fireplace insert standing beside the drywalled recess with its power cord running to the outlet inside the opening, ready to be slid into place
Crystel lifting the electric fireplace insert and sliding it into the recessed opening in the framed fireplace surround

Step 4: Wrap the Columns in Plywood

With the insert in, I moved on to the two side columns. I built them out with blocks of 2x4s, which looks a little chaotic, I know. But it’s all getting covered. I just need something that I can nail plywood to.

Then I wrapped each column in plywood and attached it with a brad nailer. Where the plywood pieces meet at the corners, I cut the edges at a bevel so they fit together with no raw edges showing. Just like that, the chaos turns into what looks like one solid beam!

Electric fireplace insert installed in the drywalled recess, with stacked wood blocks framing out the side column and a sheet of plywood being fitted against it
Crystel using a cordless brad nailer to attach a plywood panel that wraps the side column of the fireplace surround

Step 5: Lay the Brick Hearth and Surround

Now for the fun part: brick! I started with the hearth. I spread mortar on the floor with a notched trowel and pressed each brick paver into place, working my way along the front of the fireplace.

Once the hearth was down, I bricked in the area around the insert. For this portion, I back-buttered the bricks (applied mortar to the back of each brick), then set them in place. I used a laser level to keep my rows straight because even a slightly crooked brick will haunt you forever.

Crystel pressing red bricks into a troweled bed of mortar to build the hearth in front of the glowing electric fireplace insert
Crystel setting red bricks around the electric fireplace insert using a green laser level as a guide, with the finished brick hearth and a notched trowel on the floor below

By the end of the day, I was wearing about as much mortar as the wall was. Totally worth it. This DIY electric fireplace is starting to look so good!

Crystel taking a smiling, mortar-smudged selfie in front of the electric fireplace after finishing the brick surround and hearth, with the insert glowing and the plywood side columns in place

Step 6: Build the Mantel

For the mantel shelf, I double-stacked two pieces of 3/4 inch plywood on top of the surround.

Next, I added a piece of plywood to the front of the mantel, above the brick. I set it slightly back from the two side columns so the columns would stand out and give the fireplace some depth.

Crystel lifting a sheet of plywood into place on top of the fireplace surround to form the mantel shelf
Crystel fitting a plywood panel onto the front of the mantel above the brick, set slightly back from the two side columns, beneath the double-stacked plywood shelf

Then I added crown molding underneath the mantel shelf. This is where it really started looking like a DIY electric fireplace with character and not just a wood box!

Crystel checking the crown molding installed beneath the mantel shelf on the plywood fireplace surround, with the brick hearth in front

My Favorite Trim Trick

Here’s a little problem I ran into. With two pieces of 3/4 inch plywood stacked together, finding trim the same thickness as the mantel shelf was tricky. So I went to the baseboard aisle instead!

I found a baseboard with a detail I loved and cut it down on my table saw to fit. Then I wrapped it along the edge of the shelf for a clean, fully finished look. This is a great trick to keep in mind when working on custom pieces like this!

Crystel wearing ear protection and using a table saw outside to rip a piece of baseboard down into trim for the mantel edge
Crystel fitting cut-down baseboard trim along the edge of the double-stacked plywood mantel shelf for a clean, finished look

Step 7: Add Box Molding Trim

To give this DIY electric fireplace that old world, it’s been here forever, built-in look, I added box molding with strips of MDF. It’s similar in style to the box molding I added in my own house, and I just love how much character it adds.

I nailed the MDF strips to the top, front, and sides of each column, plus the front of the mantel.

Crystel fitting a strip of MDF trim onto the front of the fireplace column as she begins adding box molding to the surround
Crystel using a cordless brad nailer to attach MDF trim to the side column of the fireplace surround, beside the brick and glowing electric insert

A laser level came in handy again here. It helped me line up the trim pieces so everything matched from the front of the columns to the sides.

Close-up of MDF box molding panels on the side and front of the fireplace column, with green laser level lines marking where the trim pieces line up
Crystel nailing MDF trim pieces onto the mantel front above the brick to create box molding panels, using a laser level to keep the lines even

For an extra layer of detail, I added thin panel molding along the inside edges of each box. And I wrapped baseboard around the bottom of each column. Brick is not exactly flat, so I used a jigsaw to trim the bottom of the baseboard to fit over the hearth.

Crystel pressing thin white panel molding into the inside edges of the MDF box molding on the fireplace column for an extra layer of detail
Crystel fitting baseboard around the base of the fireplace column, with the bottom edge cut to sit snugly over the uneven brick hearth

Step 8: Fill the Mortar Joints

Next, I went back to the brick to fill in the joints. I used a grout bag to pipe mortar into the gaps between the bricks. If you’ve ever frosted a cake, you already have this skill!

Then I used my finger to press the mortar in and smooth it out. This is what gives the brick that soft, old-world look I love. After filling in all the grooves, I went over everything with a damp sponge to clean the brick and give the mortar a final smoothing.

Crystel using her finger to press and smooth the piped mortar into the joints between the bricks above the electric fireplace insert
Crystel using a grout bag to pipe mortar into the gaps between the bricks on the fireplace surround, with the box molding trim above

Step 9: Fill, Caulk, Prime, and Paint

This is the not-so-glamorous part, but it makes all the difference. I filled every nail hole and seam with wood filler and sanded it smooth. Then I caulked all the joints so the trim looks like one solid piece.

Finally, I primed and painted the whole surround. I have a full guide for painting built-ins like this for a professional finish. You can read my step-by-step process and best tips here: The ULTIMATE Guide to Painting Cabinets & Furniture.

Crystel using a small roller to paint the box molding trim on the fireplace surround white, with the finished brick and mortar joints beside it

Step 10: Add an Access Door Behind the Fireplace

Here’s a little detail I’m really proud of. On the back side of the wall, I cut a small opening in the drywall behind the fireplace.

Then I installed a small access door over it. Now, if anyone ever needs to get to the outlet behind the insert, they can just pop the door open instead of pulling the whole fireplace out. Easy peasy!

Crystel wearing ear protection and using a power tool to cut a small rectangular opening in the drywall on the back side of the fireplace wall
Crystel attaching a small white access door to the drywall cutout on the back of the wall, giving easy access to the electric fireplace outlet

Step 11: Finish the Brick Edges With Trim

The very last step was adding trim where the brick meets the wood. The edge of the brick and the mortar can look a little unfinished. These narrow trim pieces hide the uneven lines and make the whole thing look polished.

I added one piece along the bottom of the mantel, right above the brick. Then I added trim along the inside edge of each column.

Crystel fitting a strip of trim along the bottom of the painted mantel where it meets the brick, covering the edge for a clean transition
Crystel kneeling on the hearth to install trim along the inside edge of the fireplace column where the wood meets the brick surround

The Finished DIY Electric Fireplace

And here she is! A brand-new DIY electric fireplace in a spot that used to be nothing.

Completed electric fireplace with a painted white mantel and box molding columns framing the red brick surround and hearth, before the wall above was finished and decorated

Once the wall was finished and the mantel was styled, this DIY electric fireplace became the coziest spot in the whole room. I mean, look at that warm brick next to the white trim. I could sit here all day!

Finished electric fireplace built from scratch with a red brick surround and hearth, a white mantel decorated with brass candlesticks, framed photos, and a vase of greenery, and Crystel seated beside it near an arched doorway

Stay tuned for the full room reveal, where I’ll walk you through the whole bedroom makeover from start to finish.

DIY Electric Fireplace FAQ

Do you need an electrician to install an electric fireplace?

Many electric fireplace inserts simply plug into a standard outlet. I ran the wire and installed the outlets myself, then had an electrician connect everything to the panel and add a new breaker. Always check your local codes and call a licensed electrician for anything involving your electrical panel.

Do you need fire-rated drywall around an electric fireplace?

Always follow the clearance and installation instructions in your insert’s manual. I used fire-rated Firecode X drywall around the fireplace for a little extra caution.

How do you reach the outlet behind a built-in electric fireplace?

I added a small access door on the back side of the wall, right behind the fireplace. That way, you can get to the outlet without pulling the insert out.

What trim can you use on a thick mantel shelf?

If you can’t find trim tall enough for your mantel edge, try baseboard! I cut down a baseboard with a detail I liked on my table saw, and it wrapped the double-stacked plywood shelf perfectly.

Can you put brick around an electric fireplace insert?

Yes! I laid brick for both the hearth and the surround, then piped mortar into the joints with a grout bag. Just be sure to check your insert’s manual for any clearance requirements first.

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