A sophisticated bathroom vanity with a dark wood base and gold hardware, paired with a crisp white countertop. The Sherwin Williams Dried Thyme walls feature DIY picture frame molding detailing, and a gold-framed mirror is illuminated by a trio of globe light fixtures. A gold towel ring holds a patterned hand towel, adding a refined touch.

Upgrading Our Guest Bath with DIY Picture Frame Molding

Over just 12 days, I transformed my guest bathroom from basic and boring to a timeless classic—and the star of the show? My DIY picture frame molding! This beginner-friendly project adds style, depth, and sophistication to any room. Here’s how I made it happen, step by step:

A wider view of the bathroom vanity, highlighting its rich wood cabinetry with open shelving underneath for towel storage. The sage green walls with DIY picture frame molding, complemented by brass accents in the faucet, light fixtures, and towel ring. The vanity is adorned with a small vase of yellow flowers and modern accessories.

Associated Blog Posts
Complete DIY Guide to My Dark Green Bathroom Remodel
DIY Curved Molding Around an Arch
How I Installed a Beautiful Tile Tub Surround (And You Can Too!)
How To Build an Arched Bathtub Alcove
How To Build a Brass Rail Shelf (high-end dupe)

What You’ll Need

Step 1: Install Crown Molding and Baseboard

Before diving into the DIY picture frame molding, it’s important to create a solid foundation by installing crown molding at the top of the wall and baseboard at the bottom. Using a brad nailer, securely attach these elements to the wall. This step defines the borders of your design and gives you a clear picture of how much wall space you’ll have left to work with.

Step 2: Adding a Chair Rail

For my DIY picture frame molding, I divided the wall into upper and lower sections with a chair rail. For a balanced look, measure about one-third of the way up the wall as a general guide. A laser level will keep everything perfectly aligned, while a stud finder helps you locate the studs for secure attachment.

Attach the chair rail along the laser guide using a brad nailer, wrapping it around the entire room. For corners, use 45° angled cuts, while flat cuts are perfect for edges, like where the trim meets the tiled archway.

Close-up of a person using a red nail gun to secure chair rail molding near a white tile shower arch with brass hardware, demonstrating a bathroom trim installation.

Step 3: Creating the DIY Picture Frame Molding

With the chair rail in place, it’s time to outline the boxes for the DIY picture frame molding. A laser level is your best friend here, ensuring every box is perfectly straight and evenly spaced.

Using the laser lines as guides, I attached the trim pieces to the wall with my brad nailer. To create neat, professional corners, I used 45° angled cuts with my miter saw some trim shears.

Doesn’t it look so good? Even though the box sizes may vary depending on your wall dimensions, maintaining equal spacing between them is key to achieving a polished look.

For a cohesive design, I carried this spacing through to the curved trim around the archway. Check out my full tutorial on how I created this curved trim.

Step 4: Finishing the Trim for a Professional Look

Once the trim was installed, I caulked all the edges where the molding meets the wall. Caulking is a small step that makes a big difference, giving the trim a seamless, professional finish.

Next, I filled nail holes and seams with spackle instead of traditional wood filler. Spackle is perfect for tiny holes and requires no sanding—just wipe it smooth with a damp cloth or baby wipe. This method is fast, mess-free, and has worked wonders for me on past projects, like my coat rack wall.

Step 5: Priming and Painting the DIY Picture Frame Molding

Since bathrooms are high-moisture spaces, I used PVC trim, which is waterproof and durable. However, PVC requires a shellac-based primer to ensure the paint adheres properly. Skipping this step will lead to peeling or chipping paint on your DIY picture frame molding.

After priming, I painted the trim with a combination of a trim brush and a foam paint roller. This technique smoothed out brush strokes for a flawless finish.

Bonus Tip: How to Get Crisp Paint Lines

Want the secret to crisp, clean paint lines? Start by masking along the edges of the trim with painter’s tape. Run a thin bead of caulk along the tape to seal any gaps, then paint as usual. Once the paint dries, score the tape with a utility knife before peeling it off. This method creates perfect lines with zero paint bleed—even on textured surfaces like ceilings.

My Finished DIY Picture Frame Molding

Here’s a quick before-and-after moment to show just how far my bathroom has come. The DIY picture frame molding adds timeless charm, tying the entire design together beautifully. It’s subtle yet impactful, transforming the space into something truly special.

Would you like to see the full bathroom reveal? Click this link for all the details in one blog post.

A modern farmhouse bathroom with sage green walls featuring paneled molding, a dark wood vanity with brass hardware, a white countertop, and gold fixtures. The room is styled with a vintage gold-framed landscape painting, wooden wall hooks, and a small floating wooden shelf holding decorative jars and greenery.
What is DIY picture frame molding?

DIY picture frame molding is a decorative wall treatment that involves creating rectangular or square “frames” on your walls using trim. It’s a budget-friendly way to add elegance and architectural interest to any room.

Can I use any type of trim for picture frame molding?

Yes, but the material you choose matters. Wood trim is a classic choice, while PVC trim is ideal for bathrooms or high-moisture areas because it’s waterproof and won’t warp.

Can I install picture frame molding on textured walls?

Yes, you can! Just be sure to caulk the edges where the trim meets the wall to create a smooth transition and minimize gaps.

How do I get professional-looking paint lines with picture frame molding?

For crisp paint lines, mask off the trim with painter’s tape, then run a thin bead of caulk along the tape’s edge to seal gaps. Once it dries, paint as usual, and remove the tape carefully for perfect lines.

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