When we last left off…
I had just finished building the two cabinet boxes for these built-in office cabinets. Creating a built-in office cabinet system was the perfect solution for this work-from-home mom of three because dedicating an entire room to a home office just wasn’t practical. I needed a stylish, functional workspace that wouldn’t take over an entire room but would still keep office supplies (and my collection of half-used Scotch Tape dispensers) neatly tucked away.
This is Part 2 of How to Build Built-In Office Cabinets. Head over to Part 1 to see how I built the cabinet boxes.
Then check out Part 3 where I tackled the floating desk, backsplash, and cabinet doors—plus some fun cabinet lighting tricks you won’t want to miss!
Want to see the entire cabinet-building process in action? Watch my YouTube tutorial!
With the main cabinet boxes built, I decided to add a mini cabinet as a connector piece. This smaller cabinet would help tie everything together and give the built-ins a custom, seamless look.
By now, I was feeling like a pro at building cabinets (as one does after assembling 800 pocket-hole joints). This mini cabinet followed the same structure as the larger ones—just on a smaller scale. I also designed it to be slightly recessed for added depth and dimension.
To get started, I placed my built-in office cabinets against the wall in their permanent spot and then measured the exact space between them.
And just like that, we’re back to drilling pocket holes again. I drilled two sets of pocket holes into each cabinet wall and used clamps to keep everything tight and square while securing the pieces together. Don’t forget to use wood glue!
To attach the middle shelf, I drilled pocket holes on both ends and secured it inside the cabinet. Since this shelf would be higher up, I faced the pocket holes upward, where they wouldn’t be visible.
Next, using select pine, I built a face frame similar to the larger cabinets. Once everything was flush and square, I screwed my frame together through the pocket holes, used a nail gun to attach it to the cabinet, and added beadboard to the back.
Now it was time to attach everything to the wall.
Using my stud finder, I located the wall studs. Then, with L brackets, I secured the built-in office cabinets directly into the studs. Each cabinet got two L brackets at the top, ensuring they weren’t going anywhere.
Next up: Crown Molding! I attached the crown molding and baseboards using my nail gun.
And then came caulking. My secret weapons? A good caulk gun, baby wipes, and an index finger that will never be the same.
If you’re wondering what to caulk: Just caulk everything.
After the caulk dried, I taped everything off and primed the cabinets using my favorite primer with a foam roller.
Adjustable shelves make built-in office cabinets way more functional.
I cut plywood boards to fit inside the cabinets behind the face frame. Since I had already drilled shelf pin holes, these shelves didn’t need to be permanently attached.
Pro Tip: If your shelves are even slightly too short, they won’t sit properly on the pegs. Double-check your measurements before cutting!
To avoid ugly raw plywood edges, I applied iron-on edge banding to the front of each shelf.
It’s SO easy:
We’re in the home stretch! Time for paint.
I used my zip wall to protect the rest of my house from the paint dust. Every seam, hole, and crack was taped shut because I was not messing around.
I went with Gossamer Veil by Sherwin Williams, applied with my Graco paint sprayer. If you don’t have a sprayer, a foam roller works too. If you’re nervous about painting cabinets, check out my ultimate guide to painting cabinetry—trust me, if you follow my steps, you’ll get a flawless finish.
That’s a wrap on Part 2! In Part 3, we’re tackling:
Ready to see how it all comes together? Check out Part 3 here!
For a durable and professional finish, use 3/4-inch plywood for the cabinet frame, poplar wood for the face frame, and beadboard for backing. These materials ensure sturdy and stylish built-ins.
To secure DIY built-in cabinets, locate wall studs with a stud finder and use L-brackets or screws to fasten the cabinets directly into the studs. This ensures stability and prevents tipping.
For seamless built-ins, use wood filler or pocket hole plugs. Once dry, sand smooth and paint over for an invisible finish.
Drill shelf pin holes into the side panels using a Kreg Shelf Pin Jig, allowing you to adjust shelf heights as needed.